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(Basic vermiculture information)

Vermi is the Latin word for worms and vermicluture is the scientific name for worm farming. Vemicomposting is the process of using earthworms and microorganisms to convert organic waste into black, earthly-smelling, nutrient-enriched humus. Vermicompost contains worm castings, some partially decomposed organic material, worm cocoons, worms and other organisms. Worm castings are natural by-products of earthworms, are rich in organic matter and are nature’s finest source of plant food and soil conditioners.

The best kind of earthworm to use for vermicomposting is the redworm. Redworms (Eisenia foetida, Eisenia andrei, Lumbricus rubellus etc.) are called tiger worms, brandling worms, red wigglers, manure worms, red hybrids, golden hybrids, Georgia reds, yellow tails, tiger tails, California or Tennessee stripers, Michigan reds, Ozark reds, etc. Mail-order redworms are most commonly the tiger worm (Eisenia foetida) which is identified by the alternate light and dark coloring of the segments, giving a striped appearance like a tiger tail. Other redworm species are usually a deep red color without the distinctive stripes.

Redworms are hermaphrodites, which means they have both male and female reproductive organs. Each worm is capable of producing egg capsules, but first must have contact with another worm to be fertilized. Under favorable conditions, each worm will produce egg capsules every 7 to 10 days. These incubate for 14 to 21 days, usually near the surface area. The worm egg is slightly oval in shape and looks similar to a grain of rice. The egg is creamy white when first laid then turns yellow and almost reddish brown as it nears hatching. Each capsule contains from 2 to 20 worms and the new worm reaches breeding age in 60 to 90 days when the band or collar appears about 1/4 down the length of the worm from its head. The band or ring around the neck is scientifically called the clitellum. They are not as large as the nightcrawlers, but the redworm is the most popular fishing worm because of their liveliness, attractive color, ability to handle heat and cold and they do not break apart like the nightcrawler varieties.

PREPARING WORM BEDS: You can start with mature breeding stock or bedrun (mixed size) worms depending on how much you want to invest and how fast you want to establish your business. Each bed should be stocked with 300 to 500 worms per square foot of surface area. The worm beds may be made of cement blocks, 1" x 12", 2" x 12" treated lumber or other suitable materials with provisions for drainage if necessary. The bed can be as long as you like, but don't make it too wide so that you can't reach across it. For easy access during harvest and maintenance, the ideal worm bed is about 48 inches wide and at least 12 inches deep. Putting 5 to 6 inches of bedding material in the bottom of the worm bed will be sufficient to start.

BEDDING MATERIAL: The redworms adapt easily to new environments and bedding conditions. Bedding materials that can be used are 100% Canadian peat moss or aged animal manure such as rabbit, cow, horse, or sheep mixed with peat moss, shredded leaves, shredded newspaper or aged saw dust in a one-to-one ratio. Mix the bedding material together and wet it down thoroughly. Be aware that dry organic matter will resist absorbing water until its surface softens which can often take several days. The proper moisture condition of the bedding should be where it is just damp enough to squeeze one or two drops of water out when you squeeze a handful of bedding material. Keep in mind that even aged manure has already gone through a heat cycle, but under these conditions, bedding materials will generate heat during decomposition when mixed with other organic material and water. Mix the bedding and water lightly for 2 to 3 days. On the third day, put your hand into the bed to test it for heat. If the bedding material is hot, keep mixing it once a day until all the heat is out. If the bedding is cool to the touch, you can release the worms. They will disappear immediately into the moist bedding material.

WORM FEEDS: Earthworms will eat almost any organic matter at some stage of decomposition and they can eat up to their own body weight every day. Foods such as fresh rabbit manure or aged animal manure (horse, cow and poultry) are excellent sources of worm feed. All of these feeds should be fed sparingly as an excess of feed may generate heat sufficient enough to kill the worms. A general rule of thumb suggests sprinkling about 1/2 inch layer of rabbit manure or aged animal manure once or twice a week then watering should be done after every feeding and, if necessary, once in between feedings.

MAINTENANCE: Contents of each bed should be loosened with a garden fork at least once a week from top to bottom to guard against packing. Keep adding brown organic material such as old pine sawdust, wood shavings, fallen leaves, hay, rice hulls, shredded newspaper etc, while you can still identify some of the components. Don't add new bedding material more than one inch at a time because too much organic matter put into the bed will heat up and may kill the worms. Mix new bedding materials while turning the beds and wet down thoroughly. Be sure to check the temperature and moisture conditions the following day since dry organic matter will resist absorbing water until its surface softens. If the material is too dry or is heating up, you must water the bed for the next few days.

TEMPERATURE: Most worms don’t like to be too cold or too hot. Temperatures above 90F or below 32F may kill the worms. For commercial worm production, ideal temperatures for growth and maximum breeding is at 60 to 75 degrees F. Outdoor worm beds should be protected by some kind of roof from the overheating and drying effects of direct sunlight. Keep them covered to keep out the unwanted moisture from the heavy rains. In the summer time when the south wind blows hard, you may have to water lightly once or twice a day because the top of the worm beds dry too fast. In winter, a 6 to 12 inch (all it depends on indoor or out door worm beds) layer of leaves, hay, straw, and/or grass clippings with 1 to 2 inches layer of manure can be spread over the bed to protect the worms from freezing. When the temperature goes back up, the young worms emerge and they will return to the feeding area, the top 4 to 5 inches, and the covering material provides the worms with food.

WATER: The earthworms can survive without food for a short time, but they require adequate moisture for growth and survival. Watering should be done at least two to three times a week to maintain proper moisture conditions. (Do not over-water during the rainy season, as the worms can drown if the soil is saturated).

pH: Some earthworms tolerate a low pH, but most worms prefer a pH near neutral (pH 6.5 to 7.0). It's helpful to know your worm bed's pH level, since it helps determine whether or not you have to use lime to control the acidity of the bed. pH levels should be checked regularly with a pH tester, which is available in most feed stores or garden centers. If your worm bed is too acid, a thin coating of lime should be spread over the "turned" bed and watered in to correct acidity. Use lime stone, crushed oyster shell or dolomitic lime.

Bedding material, especially those made from a good mixture of ingredients, rarely develop high salt levels--unless you happen to be using large amounts of manure (cattle are often fed lots of salt to make them gain water weight). Accumulated salt may cause worm bedding to be alkaline. For this reason, water regularly to flush away salt as necessary if you use animal manure. If your worm bed is too alkaline, you can bring down the pH to a more neutral condition by adding materials such as peat moss, old sawdust, pine needles, oak leaves, and leaf mold from acid-loving trees.

AERATION: Earthworms can live at relatively low oxygen and high carbon dioxide levels and can even survive submerged in water if the water contains dissolved oxygen. In the complete absence of oxygen, however, they may be adversely affected or die. The oxygen may be depleted if the beds are kept too wet and under conditions where anaerobic bacteria could produce toxic substances. Since the worms breathe through their skin, they require a moist environment for the exchange of air to take place. Turn the bed regularly (preferably once a week) and keep the bedding conditions loose and moist but not soggy wet.

Comments from Kay Smith: I hope the enclosed information has been helpful to get you started in the worm business. Our earthworm information was referenced from "Worms and Waste in the Rabbitry", by American Rabbit Breeders Association, "Market Consideration for Earthworm Enterprises", Charles F. Eno. University of Florida, "Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening", published by Rodale Books, Inc. My earthworm information was design to raise earthworms in the southern states. Under different conditions, you may have to modify the technique with some adjustments necessary. You may wish to contact reputable worm growers in your area and adapting some of their methods to achieve higher production.

K & W RABBIT AND WORM FARM
P.O.Box 50691
Fort Myers, FL. 33994
Tel/Fax (941) 543-2620
e-mail: kwfarm@msn.com