Kuranda Scenic Railway and
Skyrail Cable Car
Monday
December 1, 1997
By Rusty, Jane & Andrew
Cyclone season starts today!!
You'd never know it by the beautiful weather we've had in Cairns! It gets hot and
the sun is hot but it seems so cool with breezes and compared to where we've been.
We headed for Kuranda today on the Cairns-Kurnada Railway. The tracks were laid
between 1882 and 1891 and was an engineering feat of tremendous magnitude, costing many
lives. The workers literally moved mountains with strategy, fortitude, hand tools,
dynamite, buckets and bare hands. Numbers of tunnels were carved into the mountains
and every bit was removed by hand. The completion of the railway was what opened up
the tablelands here. Vast rainforests were cleared to allow farming and grazing.
With "progress" so much is lost in the environment!! The ride was
beautiful with breathtaking views. The cars we rode in were very old, having once
served for transportation from Cairns to Brisbane. When the new Queenslander line
went in with modern cars these were retired for this jaunt. One could feel the
history riding in them. Kuranda is a village up in the rainforest that is primary
for tourists. It's a vehicle for learning about the area and made for a fun day. We
had free time to tour the little village but it wasn't long enough. Always choices
to be made and things have to be left out. We went to the Butterfly Sanctuary and
thoroughly enjoyed those little fluttering creatures. The Ulysses Butterfly is
BRIGHT blue but when it lands it promptly folds it's wings together. We tried to get
a picture but that is a challenge. Next we made our way to the Rainforestation
Nature Park. The 40 hectares of land there was some of the land cleared for
farming. It was a large coffee plantation at one time. The owners are
committed to reforesting and preserving. The park is there now of course with
rainforest areas preserved. What they do grow are Eucalyptus trees. It takes
one half kilo a day of Eucalyptus leaves per Koala Bear. They also have to go into
the State Forest to get more! We had the unique experience of riding in an amphibious army
duck here. They were the vessels built exclusively by women in Detroit between
1941-1944 and used in the war to transport men onto land. There were 22,000 made and
the life of them in war was 18-20 days. There was a fleet of eight of them here that
were bought as surplus out of Papa New Guinea. They took us up into the rain forest
and then back into the park.... part of the trip was on hard ground and part in
water. The water area was from the irrigation system used at one time for the coffee
plantation. Those ducks can move! I was most appreciative that our driver had
a directed path and not much straightaway. You had to hold on tight not to get
bounced out!! They weigh 6 1/2 tons and the tires can be inflated and
deflated. A tire can take 22 bullets before the compressor can't keep up with
filling it. They don't get that kind of a test much anymore. The only weapons
we saw here were some Aboriginal spears.
In the rain forest we saw so many basket ferns. They
are fascinating. They again start as a seed up in the tree. They begin to grow
just using the tree as a host. They are not parasites. They collect leaves
etc., which decompose and form soil as they continue to grow in size. They are
25 degrees centigrade in the middle when it's cold outside. Lots of critters use
them as homes and places to get warm. They advertise them as having a penthouse view
with central heating! When it rains they suck up a great deal of water. In
strong storms they will weigh so much that when the tree sways it can snap off at the
point of the basket. They are just huge! We saw some that were every bit of
fifty years old. Fungi grow all through the rainforest of course. We saw some
bracket fungi that were saucers as big as the lid of a garbage can.
We were served an Australian "Barbie" for lunch.
These folks are "meat eaters!." We had a wonderful open air area to
eat that overlooked the nature park. From there we went to see the Pamagirri
Aboriginal Dancers perform and then they led us on a "dreamtime walk" telling us
about their culture. We all had a chance to try our skill with a boomerang!
They did a spear throwing demonstration. The more I learn about these peoples the
more I respect them. It's terribly sad to see how "lost" the culture is
for them today. They played the didgeridoo for us which is always fascinating.
We went through the nature center and actually got to hug one of those precious
Koalas. I wasn't coming this far without doing that!! There were kangaroos and
wallabies for us to see up close and pet as well. We saw wombats and pythons
too..... some things you don't want to really see in the wild!!
We returned to Cairns by way of the Skyrail that took us up
and over the Rainforest. Once again we had breathtaking views! At seven and a
half kilometers it is the world's longest sky tram. We've not had a bad experience here
yet!!.... We took in the free dinner the hostel provides and then wandered back here.
It is amazing how these towns come to life at night and stay that way till the wee
wee hours of the morning! No fear about moving around town at night. The backpackers
are a major industry in Australia. In Cairns they are 48 percent of the tourists.
There are so many discounts and programs that are available to them. It's a
wonderful system for kids to see the country (and even some of us "old" folks).
Andrew will have a ball the next few months.
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