Climbing a Glacial River

 

NEW ZEALAND
Day 25 12/10/97
Wayward Bus

Day 26 12/11/97

Great Coast Road

Day 27 12/12/97

Twelve Apostles

Day 28 12/13/97

Melbourne/Auckland

Day 29 12/14/97
"Kiwi" Experience

Day 30 12/15/97
Aotearoa

Day 31 12/16/97
Raining Cats & Dogs

Day 32 12/17/97
Panning for Gold

Day 33 12/18/97
Glacial River

Day 34 12/19/97
Sun has Come Out!

Day 35 12/20/97
Bungy Jump

Day 36 12/21/97
Church of Good Shepherd

Day 37 12/22/97
Kaikoura

Day 38 12/23/97
Ferry Across Channel

Day 39 12/24/97
Christmas Eve

Day 40 12/25/97
Rotorua

Day 41 12/26/97
Boxing Day!

Day 42 12/27/97
Wiatomo Walkway

Day 43 12/28/97
Black Water Tubing to View the GlowWorms

Day 44 12/29/97
End of "Kiwi Experence"

Day 45 12/30/97
Adelaide

Day 46 12/31/97
Glenelg Beach

Day 47 1/1/98
DDay Departure Day

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Jane & Andrew on the Franz Joseph Glacier

Thur. December 18, 1997

Day 33

What a MISERABLY WET RAINY DAY!! I heard it raining ALL night long. It’s not the sound of the surf we hear – it’s the RIVER! I’ve lost track of how many straight hours of rain we’ve been in. I know it’s been three days!! I’m so glad we didn’t rent a car here to be driving all this on our own – roads closed, flooded rivers, and narrow winding roads. Then on top of that finding a place to stay. We got up early and met in the lobby at 7:30 a.m. (those of us planning to have a full day on the glacier). Turns out we didn’t need to be there till 8:30 a.m. Then they showed up to tell us the whole day trip was cancelled. The guys were going to need to spend the morning on the glacier cutting the steps. The rain ruins them and it had never let up and had made a mess of things. They were willing to refund half our money and take us a half-day or we could cancel. I turned around and went back to bed and slept till 10:00. Everyone was pretty bored sitting around watching the rain so most of us decided to go ahead and do the half day. My thought was they wouldn’t take us if it weren’t safe. From this decision time on it only rained harder. Little did we know what was to come. We went to the office building and were issued boots, wool socks and a raincoat and then we headed up the road to the glacier. There must have been about twenty-three of us with three guides. We had to walk about 2 kilometers to get there. We waded through water up to our knees starting out. It was SWIFT water so we linked up in fours or fives to help balance and not get swept off. I was so glad I had worn my river sandals. Real shoes would take a week to dry. We were told to wear about four layers to keep warm on top and to wear shorts. It was cold and rainy and I just couldn’t. I wore my light nylon pants that dry out very quickly with my rain pants over them. Nothing I had on stayed dry. I don’t know how four layers got wet with a raincoat on. I think that between us we have no dry clothes.

Going up the glacier was plenty hard. We stopped at the base to put our socks and boots on. I realized then I was in trouble. They didn’t fit very well but were necessary to grip into the snow. Clouds and fog were right on us. The river was raging and roaring. It came out from the bottom of the glacier and sounded like thunder. That was the boulders and big pieces of ice rolling around. It was unbelievable. It seemed that it began to rain harder and harder the higher up we went. The steps were ice instead of snow and our boots wouldn’t grip. We had several NARROW passages to maneuver, ladders to cross, ropes to hold and pick sticks to use. The boots were heavy and getting heavier. All the steps were little lakes of water so the boots gripped nothing. My scar tissue on the left foot was numb and it was tough to try to kick into the ice! The farther I went the more I questioned what I was doing here!! The thunder began to get louder and then I realized that was real thunder over our heads. I was just praying there was no lightning. You’d also kind of just hold your breath and pray it wasn’t an avalanche – then realize this is BLUE ICE, not snow and that meant it couldn’t shift and slide. It was an awesome sight seeing the cracks and crevices and all the formations in the glacier. I did wonder what in the heck I was doing there and on the way back that feeling magnified 100 times. The trek down proved to be twice as hard as going up. I realized I had NO BUSINESS being up there!! My ankle won’t bend enough to let me take that deep a step coming down. My right knee won’t give enough either or it was overused. The guide was fussing at me for bending too far forward and using my arms as well. I could just see myself tumbling over. Andrew told me later he just knew I was going to fall on him in front of me and then we were all going to go!! We were both thinking similar thoughts and neither of us said a word at the time. I had noticed he kept turning around to see where I was and if I was keeping up. We took some pictures just because we were there but I’m sure they will be DARK. I really wanted to kiss the ground when I got down!!. It was an AWESOME, ONCE in a lifetime experience. We walked over the see where the river actually came out of the cave at the base of the glacier. I just can’t even describe the power of that water there. They estimated it was flowing at 40 or 50 kph. So loud! So swift! In a spot where a huge block of ice broke off the water went straight up in the air and then flowed over and went around the sides. We had our same long trek back out and then to a van. We were the first group out so we headed on back. Our particular guide in our small group was relatively new and had never been on the glacier in these conditions and he was just in awe. We headed straight for the hot chocolate and our own boots. Within minutes of walking outside our own boots were soaked anyway. The rain just pours off your jacket and fills your boots. We should have put our sandals back on even if our feet were cold! The disappointing part of the day for me was not being able to see the expanse of the glacier. The clouds were just in front of our face. It would be great fun up there for a day in the sun and having a picnic!! One option here is to take a helicopter up high and then climb down. That certainly wasn’t operating today.

We stopped at the grocery again and then walked back over that bridge to the hostel. I just tried not to look while I walked. We claimed a dryer and put everything we had in it and crawled up in the sleeping bags at 4:00 p.m. to get warm and take a catnap. Lots of folks needed to dry things so after one round we got ours out and hung stuff all over our little room and cranked the electric heater up. I had washed my hair in water that was so cold it gave me a headache! Later Andrew fixed pasta for supper. This place has signs that you have to boil water before drinking. I haven’t asked any questions. Hope I didn’t get anything brushing my teeth last night. I did the dishes and now I’m in the room again and Andrew has gone to play pool in the pub. I was dying for something to read. I finally walked to the office of the motel next door to see if they sold papers or magazines. They didn’t but the guy swiped three of his wife’s New Zealand Home and Garden magazines. I had to swear on my life that I’d return them tomorrow. I’d have read anything tonight. I couldn’t sleep anymore! I am finding I long for something American. When Andrew came in we talked for awhile. He’s working on his psyche for a bungy jump!!